Going Where the Weather Suits My Clothes

“Going where the weather suits my clothes” (Harry Neillson)

Now that it is August in the North Country the big question is, “what happened to July”, or “what happened to summer?” The answer is that it didn’t happen. We are back in Prince Rupert almost two months from the day we left and it is still in the low 60’s.  We brought two sets of clothes but have worn our “winter” stuff to death.  I’m ready to throw everything out and I suspect that I can do so pretty soon. Except for boat trips and glacier hikes it hasn’t been really cold either (and we were prepared for those occasions), and the cool nights are wonderful for sleeping.  As I write this, we are “camped” in the middle of the BC Ferry Terminal loading lot. We had to be here at 5:30 tomorrow morning anyway so decided to dry camp in the lot. 

Yesterday we planned our Last Hurrah for North Country adventures and took a side trip from the Yellowhead Hwy (BC16) up the Nisga’a Hwy to Lava Beds Provincial Park and out to the Pacific coast at Kincolith (Gingolx); a round trip of 120 miles. We left the TT at the campground in Terrace and just took the truck. It was one of the most outstanding jaunts that we have made. I can’t imagine why it is not covered up with people (but SO glad that it isn’t).

All of this area is First Nation property with some of it managed in collaboration with Parks Canada and other conservation groups. It is very near the Pacific coast and some of those fabulous mountain ranges that you see photographed by Alaskan Cruise companies surround the Nass River Valley. They are huge, dramatic, and full of glaciers, waterfalls, and other wonders. In the 1700’s a volcano erupted in the area and changed the landscape and the way of life of the native people.  Molten lava moved rivers, dammed some of them to create lakes, and left behind hundreds of acres of some of the strangest lava-rock formations imaginable. Some of the lava is honeycombed (like our Karst limestone), when it collapses the streams that are still flowing under the lava bed may emerge as aqua and emerald ponds and pools. Since some of the lava formations are higher than others, charming waterfalls are created as one pool flows into another.  The Provincial Park has excellent trails and informational signs. 

Pool in the Lava Beds at Nisga'a

 

We continued on to the end of the road at Kincolith (Gingolx); a spectacular drive through the coastal mountains and beside the Nass River. Kincolith is a little First Nation fishing village with a scattering of houses, a huge Anglican Church (?) and lots of fishing boats. There is a little restaurant there but no other businesses. We had an early dinner and shared the one table on the porch with a nice couple from BC. I took a walk while we waited for the cook’s husband to arrive to light the stove. The seafood was excellent as was the ambiance and the company.

Lunch at Gingolz, all local

Port Hardy BC: Our ferry trip was somewhat of a disappointment as the weather was cold and overcast. It did not rain and the waterway, shoreline, and foothills along the shore were clearly visible but the massive coastal range with its snow covered peaks was only a faint shadow in the background. Fortunately for us we have seen a lot of similar mountain ranges on this trip and our side trip to Gingolx had put us up close and personal to the coastal range.

The BC ferry, Northern Expedition, was at the other end of the continuum from the Alaska Marine Ferries  we took on the way up. It was more like a cruise ship; beautifully fitted out and very elegant. No noisy families with their coolers and sleeping bags on this lady! Most of the passengers were European tourist and we felt sort of isolated. We did see a lot of humpback whales and  a harbor seal. It was a long day  as we were up at 5 am, boarded at 7, and did not arrive in Port Hardy until 11:30.

Our late arrival was our first experience with true darkness in two months and boy was it ever dark! We used On-Star to find our campground and it got us lost. When we finally got  there, the campground hosts were out in the road with flashlights looking for us!  They stay up late for the ferry arrivals and try to get everyone settled in, wonderful people.  We are at Quatse River CG, which is owned and operated by the non-profit Northern Vancouver Island Salmonid Enrichment Association which also has  a salmon hatchery on-site. Because of the hatchery they are extremely strict with bear control rules.  They have no problems with throwing folks out who do not comply so we are on our best behavior.

Boarding the BC Ferry to Port Hardy

 

"Camping" at the Ferry boarding lot

 

 We are planning to go hiking and beachcombing tomorrow.